Treating melasma and hyperpigmentation
In this month’s blog I wanted to talk about something that affects a lot of women, but is rarely discussed in skincare circles: hyperpigmentation and melasma, also called (‘chloasma’ and ‘pregnancy mask’). While both terms are used interchangeably, it’s important to note that while related, they’re not the same.
There are many types and causes of hyperpigmentation that require different treatments; while melasma has specific triggers, and is known to take longer to treat, you can still have hope with a prescribed treatment plan.
I want to emphasise that while they can bring your confidence down, you should not let melasma or hyperpigmentation affect you. Melasma brought about by pregnancy or childbirth is a beautiful thing – it is a mark of the role you have played as mother and protector of your child in your womb. Wear your melasma with pride, knowing that it is part and parcel of bringing new life into the world.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation, that is often associated with pregnancy and childbirth. While an increased level of oestrogen has been recognised as one of the main causes of melasma, it can also be caused by sunlight, stress and increased skin sensitivity due to drug and/or medicine intake. Melasma is more common in women than men, and also in people with naturally brown or easily tanned skin (less frequent for people with white or darker skin).
Melasma does not present with any symptoms such as a rash, pimples or irritation (which can happen with hyperpigmentation), instead it appears in an even colour on the forehead, cheeks, lips, nose, or chin, and if it is hormone-related, it can fade once your hormone levels return to normal.
While there is still no evidence of a cure for melasma there are many treatment options with promising results that have been known to drastically improve this skin condition. Your biggest role is to reduce the flare ups and protect the skin from being in situations that aggravate the condition more.
A common mistake I see with my earthy girls suffering from melasma is they focus on treating the affected areas only. While melasma may only show up on certain areas, it’s important to treat the whole face because melasma is a disruption to the production of melanin, so by treating the whole face you are preventing the melasma from appearing in other areas.
I also recommend that you look at the overall skin condition e.g., aging, dehydration, dark circles etc, by doing this you become less fixated on the one problem, and don’t miss treating crucial aspects of other areas of your skin.
Using an all-natural plant-based skincare range like Earth4Me will steer you in the right direction. Read on for my favourite plant-based ingredients used to help manage melasma.
What is hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is a medical term used to describe darker patches of skin. These patches result from excess melanin production, which can be caused from acne scars, sun damage and hormone fluctuations.
Hyperpigmentation is more common than you think and can occur in women and men of all ages. Unlike melasma, hyperpigmentation can be accompanied by other symptoms, such as a rash, breakout, or skin inflammation.
It is necessary to diagnose what type and causes of hyperpigmentation you have, so it can be correctly treated. If you are experiencing hyperpigmentation, I urge you to see an esthetician or a dermatologist because treating it at home without understanding the triggers can cause more damage to your skin.
The three types of hyperpigmentation
Primary pigmentary: this type, which melasma belongs to, has no symptoms and often occurs for people who are naturally disposed to it (hereditary, skin type etc).
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: this type of hyperpigmentation occurs after a trigger – such as eczema, acne, waxing or other injuries or wounds to the skin.
Sun-induced hyperpigmentation: commonly recognised as sunspots, this type of hyperpigmentation is as it’s name suggests – triggered by excessive sunlight.
The best way to prevent hyperpigmentation is sun protection; and the best treatment is to use an effective consistent skincare routine with beneficial active products. By adding a four week targeted clinical treatment to the mix your skin can start to look and feel renewed.
The key is sun protection, so how does it work?
Since UV rays are a well-known trigger for melasma and can make hyperpigmentation darker, wearing sunscreen and good quality sunglasses can help prevent melasma from flaring up and hyperpigmentation from getting worse. Please note melasma can also be triggered through light entering your eyes.
Sunscreens come in two main varieties: Chemical Blockers Vs. Physical Blockers. What’s the difference?
Chemical blockers: use nanoparticles that absorb harmful UV rays and release the energy as heat, unfortunately they can contain other chemicals and toxins that enter into your body.
Physical Mineral blockers: on the other hand, are sun protectors that physically block the sun’s rays from reaching your skin. For an example zinc is a physical blocker, it sits on top of your skin and reflects the sun’s rays. A perfect option for keeping chemicals and toxins away from your skincare routine.
Which one should you use?
Although both are effective at stopping UV rays, physical blockers are recommended for individuals with melasma or hyperpigmentation. This is because physical blockers prevent more UV rays from reaching your skin than chemical blockers. However, this does mean that you HAVE to reapply (generously) and often.
- Protect Me Zinc Mineral Balm, has you covered with its main ingredient being zinc, and raw organic shea butter providing around the clock nourishment. Melt a generous amount into your skin every hour and just before leaving the house. (Personally find it a small price to pay in decreasing my toxic load). Like many other sun protectors, it will come off with water play and excessive sweating so be diligent.
Effective skincare products from the earth4me range
Clarify Me cleansing minerals contains lactic acid, kaolin clay, and green tea a powerful blend of antioxidants designed to remove surface dirt, grime and excess melanin build up. The active lactic component sloughs away dead skin cells revealing a brighter complexion.
Activate me Vitamin A Retinol: one of the most effective serums you can use for pigmentation. Vitamin A improves cell turnover hastening how fast hyperpigmentation fades.
Activate Me Vitamin B: contains niacinamide (B3), Panthenol (B5) and hyaluronic acid. This gentle skin tightening duo has many melasma skin benefits. Together fading age spots, reducing pigmentation, and lightening and whitening the skins complexion.
Activate Me Vitamin C: A potent antioxidant blend of ascorbic acid, kelp, ginger, and ginseng all together drastically lightening, smoothing, and brightening the complexion leaving a lasting skin glow. Dermatologists and skin experts all recommend using vitamin C to treat pigmentation.
Purify Me Protein Enzyme Peel: A popular and effective chemical-free enzyme peel working hard to treat melasma and for good reason, it dissolves dead skin cells at an accelerated rate. With the natural bleaching and cleansing properties of green papaya, and the brightening qualities of lemon peel.
Brighten Me Vitamin C face mask: This clinic grade facial mask with Strawberry, chamomile and rose powder work together to break down the glue-like bonds that hold dead skin cells together, loosening and exfoliating the skins surface, promoting a renewed complexion.
Effective clinic treatments from earth4me
Active Enzyme peel: This power packed enzyme peel can improve melasma by removing the outermost cells of the skin that contain the pigment. With a blend of natural fruit-based ingredients helping to digest dead skin cells revealing a brighter, lighter complexion.
Dermaplaning: May be an ideal solution. This painless procedure instantly reveals smoother, brighter skin, diminishes dark spots and fine lines, while rejuvenating the skin with absolutely no down-time.
Micro-needling works by using tiny needles to create small perforations, or ‘micro-channels’ in the skin. This stimulates the healing response of the deeper layers and encourages your skin to make new, collagen-rich tissue.
Laser treatment: The target of laser treatment for melasma is the pigment cell – the melanocyte. While it may seem easy to target it with laser, melasma is much more complex than that. Other cells and skin structures are involved in the skin making excess melanin and these also need to be targeted through treatments. So, laser alone will not help make melasma magically melt away.
If you would like a professional diagnosis, book an in-depth skin consultation with me, in person or over video, There is a lot of research and resources readily available on the two topics and if you are interested in learning more, please get in touch so I can further help you.
Natasha Brock is a trained beauty therapist and skincare specialist with over 18 years experience in New Zealand and Australia. In addition to offering customised skin care products, she runs a clinic in Port Hedland, Western Australia.
